Monday, September 8, 2014

Improvisational Recipe




Happy Mid Autumn festival.  I should have gone out to soak up the full moon last night.  We had nothing to harvest except bushels' worth of metaphors. We had family over last night and boa-ed jiaozi like any good family from Shandong should do.   We were hosting so we were able to serve sour grape juice, rather than sorghum liquor.  We called on the phone out to Shandong where the rest of the family was meeting and I could almost smell the baijiu through the phone.   Perhaps it was bidirectional. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mid-Autumn_Festival

My contribution was from earlier in the day was a bowl of guacamole.  Steeped in Chinese tradition, clearly.  I had picked up some avocados for my salad at the market.  I picked up a bunch of other things I wanted and then figured I ought to buy snacks for the kids, like chips.  My younger one does not like to eat avocados but who loves to cook and has recently made guacamole with her mom lit my thoughts to check if they had any sour cream, an item more rare than avocados in China, but there it was next to the yoghurt. 



At home I exposed my daughters to the mystery ingredient.  “No thanks.”  “Trust me on this one.  If you stick your pinky in once, you’ll want more.  It’s not sweet.  But you’ll love it.”  The little one only graced the surface and licked.  She couldn’t have gotten much of a taste of anything with that. The older one went for it got a pinky full and confirmed that it was awesome.  No more publicity was needed before the younger one followed suit.  “It’s awesome.”  “Told ya.”

My wife said “oh I’ll make the guacamole” but I insisted "You can do everything else" but let me do this one with the younger one.  With very little ground to stand on defending the dish as an ancient and integral part of the Mid Autumn festival, I secured the requisite approvals and set out with my daughter to chop and mush.  The end result was on the creamy side, so we added a bit more of this and a bit more of that, though we’d already used all four of the avocados.  “It’s awesome” suggested my co-chef.  My wife came by and tried and said, “Oh.  I see. Definitely needs something.”  Pausing, I considered whether or not she was right.  She never uses sour cream. Looking with the little one on her laptop she found some recipe somewhere on line that said you used tomatoes.  “You see. You need tomatoes.  That’s the problem.”  “You don’t ‘need’ anything. There is no "problem"”  “It says so in the recipe.”  “Whose recipe?  It’s not an official preparation mandate.” 

Debriefing (only so successfully) afterward, my gal made the point that we really should teach the young one how to follow things like recipes.  “Yes, and this is certainly valuable, however I was specifically teaching the complementary art of improvisation, love.  I made it to-taste.  Chefs do that sometimes.”  “Chef.  Chef’s 如法炮制[1].”  My older one called out from the kitchen.  “This is awesome.”  Holding back a smirk I went to go consider and encourage this praise. “Save some for the guests.”  Neither of my kids have ever eaten a bit of avocado, willingly, in their lives.  Half the four- avocado bowl had been decimated.  “Save some for the guests, though they’ll never eat any.  All the Chinese relatives will react the way mom did, trust me.  That thick, creamy taste is a turn-off for the Chinese palate.  We can kill it later when we serve it tonight.” 

My ears are off in Brazil again today.  I have a memory of riding around on busses through the green Colombian hills around Medellin in 1991.  The bus, back to the city stopped every so often and the kid would yell, “Medi, Medellin!”  That’s what comes to my eyes when I hear cheerful, upbeat samba.  It doesn’t make any sense, I know.  Brazil, which I’ve never been to, won’t look like that and the music I’d have heard on that bus was most assuredly salsa, but there you go.  I have found my way to Paulinho da Viola’s album “Paulinho da Viola 1971.”  Billed as one of the most elegant of all samba masters, it is lovely, though I confess it is sometimes hard, listening to a song like "Reclamacao", which is on now, to understand differentiation within the tradition. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paulinho_da_Viola



And while my ears are pulled to South America, the residue of my consciousness is off in Eastern Europe, for that is where the sturdy, young Patrick Leigh Fermor has, at the beginning of the second book tracing his walk from Holland to Istanbul in 1934, “Between the Woods and the Water’ finally traced the Danube into: Hungary.  Read it.  Please.  That’s all I can say.  He writes so beautifully.  I try to write about what I see every day and I marvel on every page at how he renders what he recalls fifty-two years after his trek.   Here is a passage I read to my older daughter, and later my wife and now to you:

Holy Saturday had filled half the vast cathedral and I could pick out many of the figures who had been on display by the river: the burghers in their best clothes, the booted and black-clad peasants, the intricately-coifed girls in their coloured skirts, and their white pleated sleeves paneled with embroidery, the same ones who had been hastening over the bridge with nosegays of lilies and narcissi and kingcups.  There were black and white Dominicans, several nuns and a sprinkling of uniforms, and near the great doors a flock of Gypsies in clashing hues leaned whispering and akimbo.  It would scarcely have been a surprise to see one of their bears amble in and dip its paw in a baroque holy-water stoup shaped like a giant murex and genuflect. 


If you're like me, you'll need to look "murex" up . . .






[1] rúfǎpáozhì:  lit. to follow the recipe (idiom) / fig. to follow a set pattern

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