Saturday, June 10, 2017

Get It In Writing




Huevos Rancheros seem to be the weekend breakfast to beat around here these day.  Yesterday was black beans.  Today was pintos.  Lay them out on a tortilla with cheese add a fried egg and salsa.  With all the culinary might of China they grew up with and the predominance of American style breakfasts, I must note that this insistence is some pretty remarkable Mexican soft power to consider.   How is it that beans, eggs and tortilla are the thing to order, if someone is taking your order, in the morning time?  Yesterday, for lunch, they asked to get burritos.  That’s a lot of beans and salsa. 

Sunday morning, I allow myself time to read.  Otherwise this only seems to happen on planes or in truncated two page bursts in the bathroom. I had about one hundred and fifty pages to go with Ms. Sayyida, Princess of Zanzibar and Oman (a.k.a. Emily Ruete).  She had a keen eye for observation and an appropriately understated tone of a royal.  One continually considered just how rare it was to have an Arab princess account of this time gone by, so that she chose to focus on weddings and crafts and cooking which might have gone unobserved by visiting Europeans or indeed male Arabs who chose to write about it. 



How brave she was to up and leave her island and all the family intrigue to relocate to Germany.  What else but love could fuel such a radical departure.  No difficulty feeling waves of empathy when her husband slips from a tram in Hamburg and is struck dead, leaving her with three small children in a strange land.  And it was to these children that she initially set out to  write this book, to explain to them what they could otherwise never imagine about her own life as a child.

There is a bit of highly plausible treachery which casts the British government in a poor light.  I don’t know if posterity has left us any more positive renderings of Sir Bartle Frere, but Ms. Ruete has managed to effectively characterize him as mendacious knave, when he lies to her and reneges on the deal he had promised her.  The tone of the proposition seems too authentic to have been fabricated:  He asked her: “What did I consider of greater value to me – a reconciliation with my relations, or the securing of my children’s future prospects?”

He later informs her, after she has delivered on her side of the agreement and foregone seeing her visiting brother, that because she is a German subject, something he absolutely knew from the outset, her Majesty’s government would not be able to provide for her family as otherwise promised.  One wishes we could revisit the meeting and insist she get it in writing. 



And, infidel though she had become, when she finally did return, blood proved thicker than the mud, and her brother and extended family did not treat her as an outcast and one might imagine a royal Muslim family might with a sister who’d converted to Christianity.  Perhaps it is our modern era in which attitudes have hardened.  Perhaps the real lesson is that family’s generally do come before faith, in any era. 




Sunday 06/11/17




How Wrong Everyone Was




Last night I dinned with good friends at their place.  If you search the name Niels-Henning Ørsted Pedersen, or NHOP, in Dustybrine you should find an entry from a few years back, describing another night I’d dined there.  This friend cooks well.  He made the same frittata last time and it was just as delicious.  The BBQ was done well, the wine was to savor. 

It was an evening you could be smug about being in Beijing.  How wrong everyone was who characterized this place as a hardship.  Sure we had our polluted days.  But nights like this, well, this was Mediterranean.  The whole table agreed that we liked the capital better than Shanghai.  How wrong everyone else was who thought otherwise.   The young son of one of the guests came and sat on his lap and I couldn’t help but comment as to how much his eyes resembled those of this father.



Is the state more prevalent here or in northern Europe?  In northern Europe, the state will send someone to your home after you have a child to ‘see how you’re doing’ and ‘make sure everything is under control,” and in doing so they probably improve child care and protect some percentage of children from neglect, but they also clearly push the eye of the state into people’s lives in a way that would never be possible in Wyoming or indeed, Beijing.



It took a suggestion from me, I think, to let everyone know that we could talk freely about Trump.  Once I made it clear that I loathed the man and considered him a national embarrassment the flood gates opened and they sighed and new they could leave caution behind and speak freely with their American guest.  Did this suggest the durability or the fragility of the U.S. system?  If this were a parliamentary system he’d be out by now, but regardless they only gave him one more year max before he was removed.  And this, was important, that they had to ironically thank Donald Trump for providing Europe and opening to finally assert more leadership than had otherwise been possible.   America would survive this president, but American unipolar hegemony may not.  They found it unexpected and fascinating that it was not a rising China which had forced this issue, but rather, a retreating U.S.




Saturday, 06/10/17


It Rhymes With "Two"




Yes.  It’s good to be back in Beijing.  It’s good to be home.  This I can say.  I had lots of calls, but these you can navigate.  Even some calls that turned into follow-up calls.  I had one meeting where a social friend was going to introduce me to the head of IT at his company.  I was going to introduce that person to my head of sales.  He shared with me where it was his office was located and, realizing that it would take about one-hundred minutes to cab it there, I suggested I introduce his guy to my guy and we save the trip.  He agreed, readily. 



Once my daughter returned home I did my best to pull-the-cord on all work.  This is all rather human in a way that doesn’t work the same if you are working in another city in an apartment has I have for the last few days.  If I’m working in that apartment there is nothing to stop me from working and working and working, save sleeping and eating.  My one sanctuary is the bathroom where I keep my novel.  The computer is not allowed to enter this bathroom, unless it is to broadcast music, while I shower.

It was only my little one and we shuffled through the various neighborhood restaurants we had to choose from.  “I’m sick of family style Chinese.  That’s all I had all week.”  “The butter chicken at that place is always too sweet.”  “Why don’t we just order out.” “I’d like to get out of the house.  I’ve been here all day.”  We settle on a Pakistani place, which isn’t far away and isn’t much for atmosphere but really does have the best South Asian food around these parts.'



Saag Palak Paneer, Tarka Dahl, garlic nan and yes, of course, the butter chicken.  I point out the framed script on the wall and remind my daughter that script and mosaics were so important in Islam because depicting humans and God was blasphemous.  Remember the name of the mosque we visited in Istanbul?  There were two.  It rhymes with “two.”  The waitress is pleasant and I ask her how to say “thank you” in . . . Urdu.  “Is it shukriah?” “Yes.” I pause because I know Urdu is a written form, but isn’t the language simply Hindi?  It doesn’t matter, we’re mopping up sauces and naming all the countries in South America.  It’s great to be home.



Friday, 6/09/17

Does Not Include Customer Service




Well I’m on the plane at least.  This might be a brief wait or we might just sit here for hours and hours.  This plane should have departed precisely one hour and fifty-nine minutes ago.  I knew it would be late.  That’s to be expected.  The question is: how late?  I had some bad, over-salted Chinese food and the same brand of wine I used to drink when Concho Y Toro seemed like a bargain on Pitt St.  I sat it out to the end, texting with a safari company, as it were, then rushed to the plane, cutting through security: “it’s already boarding, it’s already boarding.” Onward and through, down the Pudong domestic escalator and out into cross in the “T” where it’s all left or right for gates innumerable.  Good, right here, right down below, we’ll be bussing out to this plane and no one is in line. They told me, what I already knew.  We weren’t going anywhere.

I killed an hour on a conference call and returned. “We’ll likely need another hour.”  Enough time for some emails and a beer.  This time another Air China gent suggested he’d need another hour and I let slip that this was absurd and that his company was ridiculous.  Then a woman began to bark.  There can be no more fitting verb to describe the means by which she communicated with the crowd. She barked again in Chinese that this flight was now going to Beijing.  But it is only the Air China flight that is going.  “You people for Hainan airlines, you are not boarding this plane.  Do you hear me?  Do you hear me?  You are not going anywhere.”  Tough on you guys, but I’ve got an Air China ticket and this would suggest we might soon leave.



This pilot is doing his job, which does not include customer service. “We are flying at ten thousand meters and you may experience some turbulence.”  Aren’t you going to grovel and tells us the airline is ever so sorry for the three-hour delay and appreciates our business, and appreciates that we have a choice among carriers?  No.  Nothing like that.  He appreciates that we don’t have much choice and is not on the hook for grovelling.   Everyone is up now.  The turbulence is indeed strong.  Oh, the train.  Next time, the train.  




We land.  My phone dies.  I must keep pressing keys on my lap top so it will continue to charge. The luggage is late.  Another plane’s load arrives and grabs luggage and leaves.  Downstairs the cab queue is longer than usual at this hour.  No one, including myself looks particularly attractive.  The train.  Next time, the train.




Thursday 6/8/17