Saturday, September 28, 2013

The View South



Dexter Gordon deliberately makes his way through “Soul Sister.”  The Village is now “TaiKooLi” and the place where I wrote much of my manuscript is gone.  Starbucks facing north and west on to the plaza is boarded over.  I’m told a new frame store will open soon.  During the dry, cold winter I had my spot.  On the way in I’d eye an empty stool, grab it.  Force it, if necessary, into the small space by the west-facing window.  Throw down a bag so it was claimed and take my place in what was invariably a long line.  And they knew me.  The triple espresso was ready by the time I ordered.  Writing deliberately, about seven different Starbucks cast about the east of Asia and one back home.  Writing about my and my host’s iratation in that very setting.  It was envy in my neighborhood Starbucks that had set me off like this initially.  I came back from the summer and the venue had changed.  Now, in a Chuck D voice “another summer” and another absolute makeover.  My spot, where I’d rest my face into my fingers and watch the traffic step by like James Baldwin at the Village Gate, had been erased.  This is why we write.  So moments, perishable are explained. 

I needn’t tell you that a new, bigger Starbucks has opened now in the adjacent location.  I’m looking down the plaza toward Gongti Beilu now.  In the past I’d complained that the site was tight and unimaginatively decorated.  Now it’s two stories tall with rusty, industrial girders cast into the ceiling.  The wood I’m resting my arms on is nice to the skin and there’s an electric outlet beneath my and the neighboring seat.  It’s packed.  No big-bad-data, algorithmic prowess required to tell you that if you triple the space, it’ll still be crowded.  As always, 人山人海.  I wasn’t intending to stay.  Just have a look at what they’d done.  But there’s enough of the old joint to it that I was pulled conveyor-like into the routine.  A seat by the window.  Claim it.  Before someone else does.  Enter the long line and on cue, wax grumpy.  As in “Invidia” everyone was new.  They’d gutted the place and once again, replaced all the staff.  My mind galloped on, indignant.  But it wasn’t true.  Initial observation discredited.  There was that guy with the irresistible smile.  His elfin colleague just popped up beside him.  Recognition.  Affinity.  Now I was committed to a triple shot.  They’d have it ready.  Write about writing about Starbucks, now facing south. 



We’ll have something for public consumption soon.  I’ll let the world have a look at “The Seven Deadly Starbucks” (7DS) because the tensions will shift and the locations like this one will vanish and the prophetic bits will be revealed as wrong headed, or worse, correct, defanged of whatever illustrative power they might have once possessed.  Our speed bump’s pending, out there, drawing closer every day. 

Christopher Ford took an admirable pass at the question somewhere near the crux of 7DS: “If China Ruled.” http://www.newparadigmsforum.com/NPFtestsite/?tag=christopher-ford
“Beats me” too.  And it won’t be a light switch.  The two civilizations will have an increasingly rich dialogue of fascination and acrimony to navigate for the remainder of my time on the planet.  Before anything becomes clear South Korea and Japan must play out their respective, collective wills, illustrate their capacity to evolve, to endure, to lead. 

I’m working my way through Fernand Braudel’s "The Mediterranean and the Mediterranean World in the Age of Philip II".  It’s on a stool in the upstairs bathroom.  I stood in the Mediterranean this summer with my daughters.

"The Mediterranean lands were a series of regions isolated from one another, yet trying to make contact with one another.  So in spite of the days of travel on foot or by boat that separated them, there was a perpetual coming and going between them, which was encouraged by nomadic tendencies of some of the populations.  But the contacts they did establish were like electric charges, violent and without continuity. Like an enlarged photograph the history of the islands, affords one of the most rewarding ways of approaching the explanation of this violent Mediterranean life.  It may make it easier to understand how it is that each Mediterranean province has been able to preserve its own irreducible character, its own violently regional flavor in the midst of such an extraordinary mixture of races, religions, customs, and civilizations." [Vol I p. 161.] 

How different the silted ochre current flowing out from our side of Eurasia; Bohai broadening to Yellow, emptying larger, broader to the East China Sea.  Three seas, one continuous continental civilization, four countries, twice the people, half the land, open water, unprotected . . .   xanthous legends connect peoples in spite of seas.  No azure epics here.  But perhaps Braudel’s view into the islands set in his contentious lake between Africa and Europe helps to frame the tumult pending as all distances diminish, and the photograph pulls outward from Corsica, or Crete, satellite-like so the few civilizations perceptible are left to either innovate a shared governance or default to “electric charges” and usurpation. 


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