They All Tasted Middling

Has there been a degradation of Chinese food over the years or has my taste become more acute and discerning?   A third-party, partner prospect took us out to lunch.  It was a nice gesture.  The place was a big Hunan restaurant.  The Chairman stared down from every corner.  They arranged for a baojian room.  And we ordered dishes that are nice dishes to order.  And they all tasted middling. 

I arranged for a dinner that evening.  A lovely kaoyadian that I haven’t been to for a while, but I always know it will be good.  The smell alone, is worth the trip.  At first, when I was considering where to go.  I vexed for a moment.  Then my old colleague reminds me, “are you planning to go there?”  “Hey, yeah.  Perfect.  It’s damn good and it isn’t crazy expensive for a new client.  He calls for me and makes a reservation for us and in my mind, I begin to taste their dishes and smell that smoky smell that makes me think of wine I’ve ordered and people I’ve hosted there.

Around 4:30PM it becomes clear that the same crew who took us to lunch were expecting we’d all go have dinner.  I can tell in an instant that this is something they’ve been planning.  I know too that my client will certainly want to continue this discussion and acknowledge the ceremony and diner with them, by accepting their grace.  I call and cancel my reservation.  No worries.

We all walk across Zhi Chun Lv, past one tower and then another, down a side street that has many small establishments on the first floor.  We arrive at a KFC.  Even I know that our guests have not intended to take us here.  But we wait out in front for a while and are eventually shown where to head, up the stairs and into a place that markets itself as Beijing food.  Once again, we have a baojian room.  Once gain our hosts are gracious and this time there is Yanjing beer.  But the food . . . what can you say.  I know these dishes.  I know these tastes.  And it’s all plausible.  But in no case is it remarkable.  Others call out that it is delicious, and I keep my peace. Perhaps dishes I once called out as delicious were no better than this.  Could it have been?

Tuesday, 04/02/19