The sun has just risen over the eastern
sky. I’m on the back of the dahabiya and
the morning Nile estuary here is marvelously active with life. There are small damsel flies who skirt slowly
just above the river presumably looking for food. I worry for them. There are also small perch that rise to the
surface regularly, trying to catch small insects. Up in the small trees above the reeds there
is a wonderful range of birdlife. Small
song birds who I can’t identify are calling individually from the tree nearest
me and further off in the cattails a gaggle of them are arguing. Fifty meters on there is a stately white heron
who is standing on the shore. Two mourning
doves are calling off to the left and just now a bird of prey with a wing span
much larger than all safe the heron just darted out of the copse near me,
reminding me in a flash of our friend Horus, the falcon god.
How sensible it
was to worship things like falcons and the sun, which has gone from being an
atmospheric highlight to a source of hot discomfort in the twenty minutes or so
since it has risen. And what a strange,
radical fervor must have informed the early Christians who hid out in Edfu and
decided the proper thing to do was to literally deface Ra and Osiris and Horace
there at the Nile temple complex.
I paid not an
insignificant amount Egyptian pounds yesterday to have my phone’s data plan
charged up. There is no more data to be had this morning. This seems implausible. I did not do much yesterday besides check my
emails. There are undoubtedly many
people expecting my reply, wondering why I haven’t been responsive. Certainly, I didn’t expect predictability on
this trip, though I have, up till now, generally enjoyed connectivity. I’ll go see Mustafa soon to see what he has
to say about this missing data.
A big bumble bee has
returned. His thunderous buzzing
commands attention, an innate fear of the of the bee sting, but as with the
bumble bees back home one implicitly knows he should be harmless and with a
wave or two of the hand he moves on. One
of the swallow-like birds up on the trees has caught something. Her swallow-mates are chasing her around in
graceful oblong cylindrical patterns.
Clearly, they want what she’s got.
Were they ill-gotten goods, poached from the mouth of someone who’d
properly caught something, or a meal earned fair and square that others think
they can poach? Can’t say, though one of
the two pursuers has given up the chase just now. Better to save your energy, one suspects when
considering the constant challenge of feeding oneself out here.
Wednesday 7/10/19
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