Newark airport at 4:10AM. And quickly enough, too quickly, alas, I am
out of my Lyft and into Port Authority at 5:15AM. This would be great except none of the busses
the online Trailways schedule suggested would be leaving at 5:30AM or 6:00AM or
6:30AM appear to exist. A seen-it-all
middle-aged lady at the Greyhound ticket office confirmed: she did sell
Trailways tickets, but there weren’t no busses before 7:00AM. I reluctantly suspected she knew what she was
talking about. I could take a train up,
but that would mean to schlepp to Grand Central and a schlepp that someone else
would been to make if they came to meet me in Poughkeepsie. Comparing it all there wasn’t really any
difference. So, I went to find a place
to sit and finish my book.
I’d been enjoying
“Pain” on the plane. The novel by Zeruya
Shalev, was past the midway point. Unhappily
married Iris, the protagonist was getting calls from Eitan, her long-lost
lover, but her daughter was spending time with a rather plausible and vile cult
figure. I had superimposed a family I’d
visited in Jerusalem a few days back on to the characters in the story and
found myself unwittingly concerned about my own daughters. All I needed was a quiet place to sit and
finish this . . . at 5:30AM, in freezing Port Authority.
The Starbucks in
the station wasn’t open, so I lugged my back up to Eighth Avenue and over to
Forty Second Street. Still dark, I had
it in mind to find a place to change the three hundred shekels in my pocket
back to dollars. It’s worth about one
hundred U.S. Why hadn’t I thought to do this at the airport where money
changers are legion? The place the
Greyhound lady had spoken of was fifty yards up on the right, but it was
closed. I didn’t see anything else amid
the garish neon of 42nd St and so, I plodded across the to a
Starbucks that was there on the uptown side of the street and warmly welcomed
by an uncharacteristically friendly barista, I took my seat with my espresso
and my banana and my green juice drink and a box of cheese and crackers and ate
up the next ninety minutes of time, reading.
Second guy up on
the Trailways bus. That meant I could
take one of the front seats. It was the
same Chinese American bus driver I’ve had before on this route. Iris was trying and failing at the
intervention with her daughter. She wasn’t
returning Eitan’s calls. And, by the
time we were on Route 17, heading through Paramus, I was similarly failing in
my efforts to stay awake. It rained and
rained but by the time we reached New Paltz I could see we’d had some snow
while I was gone. My wife was waiting
for me there at the bus stop and I could truly say that I was very glad to be
home. But before I could unpack and
throw my clothes in the laundry and find the silly Israeli wine-themed gift I’d
gotten her I camped out in the bathroom and finally finished the last twenty
pages of “Pain.” Recommended. Among the seven or so Israeli novels I’d read
in prep for this trip, this was among the most memorable. I couldn’t wait to give my younger one a big
hug.
Tuesday 02/11/20
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