In
a cab along Jingmi Road. I’m
coming from the northeast to meet someone in the southeast to steward them to a
meeting in the northwest. It all
sounded reasonable when I was planning it. I left about fifteen minutes earlier than I normally
would. Now I am stationary. We move a few yards 蜗行牛步[1]. We’re about 1.5 kilometers from the
traffic light. I’m envious of the
people walking by to my right. In
my mind, we will fly, once we get through. But it may well be that we don’t.
On the radio, our man Shan Tianfeng is spinning a rough yarn. The gravel voiced, master storyteller
from Dongbei is ordering some bad guys to “halt, halt, halt!” He helps a little, to cut the
helplessness. But not much and not
for long. From behind is the
sound of an ambulance. God help
the poor person fighting for their life inside that vehicle. My cabby moves over to the center lane
of death, where no one is or has been, moving. A thoughtful, practical gesture on the one hand, but an insult
to injury in my objective towards getting anywhere.
The ambulance-like car passes. But then behind are six armed police officers in two columns
on motorcycles. And behind them is
a sedan with a special red sign on the back. OK. So it would
appear this is not an ambulance, unless a foreign dignitary has collapsed mid-speech
or someone from the top brass is being escorted to the hospital, with his
family in tow. It’s times like
this that I wish I could read Chinese faster. I politely suggest to the driver that he cut his ass over
and start chasing these guys, who’ve cut a path through. But he seems to think its best to stay
in the middle lane.
I ask him about the escort and he suggests, interestingly,
that this was a major criminal. I
see. Well, I’m glad to know he’s
getting to his interrogation on time.
I have called my 9:00AM and told them that I will not be able to meet
them at the hotel and that rather, they should just go by themselves. I will talk to the driver. Now I have just bought myself another
ninety minutes. But we still are
not moving.
For the second time my driver asks me if we should just hop on
the dirt road off to the side that runs up towards the subway station. Instinctively I said “no” the first
time. We might jump out of the
frying pan and into the fire of immobility. This time I leap at it. Sure. Go
anywhere. This is ridiculous. We cut over and flop along, destroying
this man’s suspension.
It works. For
about three hundred yards we make our way along, the envy of everyone over on
the left, who remain at a stand still.
Up to a light, that is going to allow us to get back in the main current
of things. Before the next light
my driver asks me if I’d be willing to take a hard right and cut into unknown
territory, avoiding this road all together along a rough side road. I know what he’s trying to do, in
theory. In any other circumstance
I’d tell him to just ‘stick to the plan’, but today? Fine. Off you
go.
We crawl along side roads, passed demolished villages, new
half-finished high rise blocks of flats, dormitories that house all the migrant
workers who build these projects for the citizenry of Beijing. In honor of the momentum I have put on
my headphones and the Joe Henderson song “Punjab” from the (I guessed
the year right!) 1964 album “In and Out” with Elvin Jones rolling away
testifies to our new found acceleration. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In_'n_Out
Slow, but faster far than what we had a few minutes
ago. I see what he is doing. Instinctively we’re continuing to move
south, move west with every turn.
Then, up ahead is the entrance for the fifth ring road. Well, there you go. Up we head and of course there is
thick, nasty traffic but it is moving and I am now more confident than I had
been all morning of actually reaching my second destination this morning. It is ninety minutes since I left home.
[1] wōxíngniúbù: lit. to crawl like a snail and plod
along like an old ox (idiom) / fig. to move at a snail's pace / to make slow
progress
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