Groaning aloud over
Manchuria. Vast tracks of anonymous
white fields stretch on to become low mountains that peak swiftly giving way to
new patches of hills to plains, over and over and over again. We sail along, oblivious to terrestrial
circumstances. Must be cold. Must be desolate. Now a new set of hills come into view. There is a calming quality to the barren,
wintery landscape, so far below. This is
good, as the Internet is unstable.
Initially, of course, I blame China. The parenthetical listed on the collateral
has a caveat: “Internet may be
unavailable over Chinese air space.” But
I can easily access Google and the New York Times so this isn’t a Great Fire
Wall issue. United provides a satellite
service. Perhaps our Chinese friends
block this service or perhaps some ability to boost the signal that works
elsewhere is prohibited. Then again it
may simply be a compromise that United makes and defends, unchallenged.
The gentleman beside me and I strike up a conversation after
I ask him to lend me his pen for the immigration form. He’s in tech.
I’m in tech. He has a
family. I have a family. He’s from China and lives in America. I’m from America and live in China. It’s all very easy and I’m glad for having
broken the ice. People always appear
more “lovely” when you aren’t pressed in next to them in economy. You’re also less likely to have to engage in
the; “no way, it’s your first time to China?” chat.
I was conscious of having to make excuses back in the US for
the ‘Beijing-as-punch-line” discussions, around the capital’s air quality. In the winter the aesthetics of apartment
blocks and polluted lots beneath grey skies can really make you wonder just why
it is you choose to live in this town.
But fortunately I have cool cab driver and soon I’m already in a lively
Chinese discussion or the first time in ten days. He has a toothpick and I can finally change
the SIM card in my phone back to a Chinese SIM.
I’m appreciative. He laughs. The
ease of acculturation and all that it entails, transcends the obvious
compromise and reminds me of something I’d otherwise have forgotten, if I weren’t
freshly home.
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