It’s a real trade
off: taxi queue or subway coming in to
the Hong Qiao Airport at 11:00PM. The
queue is comically long. But it’s
Shanghai and the Shanghainese know a thing or two about moving large amounts of
people around. They do it much better
than anyone in Beijing would. The queue
moves swiftly and it is corralled about in long turns that hide what would
otherwise be the painful clarity of how long it is you’ll be standing there,
before you get your cab and get out.
The alternative isn’t so bad. The subway is right down stairs and unlike
Beijing where you’d be forced to switch lines four times and walk up and down
interminable stairs and hallways, it's a straight shot from the airport to the stop
I’d be heading to. Then you need to walk
out into the evening of the People’s Park and promenade for about ten minutes at
midnight past endless touts who accost you in grotesque English propositioning
you for girls and massages.
No. I’ll pass on the
subway tonight. I’ve seen this queue
worse than it is now. So, how many songs
was that? Four? Five?
Fifteen minutes? Twenty? Stepping into my reasonably new Shanghai taxi cab I explain the crossroads I’m heading to and he jets off. Up in the ears, “Memia (I Am Too Broke)” the
impossibly fast sound of F Kenya’s Guitar Band, from the classic Bokoor Studios
in Ghana.
These new headphones I’ve shoved up in there are pretty
slick. I can concentrate on the
bass. I don’t know this gentleman’s name
but I would have loved to watch him do this.
The lines are punch perfect keeping up with the Zaireoire twinkle of the two, (or is that three?) guitars. I’ve heard this song a gazillion times but never
noticed that the title is translated there.
So that’s what he’s wailing about.
I can relate. When I was in San
Jose Costa Rica and approached by a pan handler I recalled how to say the same
phrase in Spanish, taught to me by a guide, years ago in Cartegena: “I’m clean”
Soy limpio, amigo.
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