She was great. Commanding,
majestic, with a deeper voice than I remembered, Dee Dee Bridgewater came out
and owned the stage last night at the Beijing Blue Note. I may have been
projecting but there was a warm maternal feeling it seemed between herself and
the younger accomplished quintet that backed her. I was reminded of the
tales of Betty Carter University in her band and all the great bands were
younger musicians came up, were tutored and given a chance to shine.
First though, I had to get in.
After piling down the stairs to the high-end subterranean juke joint they’d put
up there in ChienMen 23, I nervously noticed the presence of other
people. Lots of them. We didn’t have a reservation. We were
told on the phone that it wouldn’t be necessary. I stood in line behind a
couple that turned into a foursome and served eventually I learned that there was table
available, there in the front. Perfect. It was pricy, but let's have
at it. And . . . my card was rejected.
In China, the first thought is that your
U.S. bank has once again detected “suspicious activity” and shut your card
down. What? My profile doesn’t include Tuesday night visits to Jazz
clubs in Beijing? This is always straightforward to fix once you reach
someone, but, it requires a phone call, waiting in a queue, confirming identity
and ultimately thanking someone in Texas or Maryland for allowing you to prove
you were you and for having flipped a switch so you could use your card again Fortunately
the folks at the Blue Note Beijing were civil and let us in while I sorted this
out. I called, got connected, was transferred, hung up on, called again,
dropped, called again and went through a call with a perfectly nice young lady
who confirmed, that I was in fact myself and that there was nothing that was holding the card. Ahh. I should
have figured. It’s the card swiping machines at the club that weren’t
able to manage an international card.
But with show time and dinner time
all imminent, I returned semi-triumphantly to the table to enjoy the pre-show
vibe with the family. Looking over my shoulder I considered the
crowd. This may seem odd to note as important but just about everyone in
there was Chinese. Chinese people who can afford $100.00 tickets are no
longer in short supply. Chinese people who dig jazz and have good taste,
and significantly, who are willing to head out on a Tuesday night are also to
be found in abundance. Another one of countless mile-markers to notch the
evolution of this city. Next milestone will be when the audience feels
relaxed enough to actually sway with the music. The house was attentive,
if notably stiff.
And our ambassador of the high
American art form did not disappoint. I had built her up to my young ladies and
as I tried to enjoy things without looking like too much of a bobbing paternal dork,
I glanced back at them and noticed they were watching. They weren’t
burrowed into their iPhones. They were also captivated. Tight blue
dress, hugging a remarkable figure, porkpie hat atop her bald dome, shapely arm
muscles, legs stretched in heels, I was marveling at this woman who was
Hillary’s age, working her way across the stage of this, her first of two
evening sets. Somehow she has kept the demons of age at bay while waxing
majestic and mature. We’ve now a home full of Dee Dee Bridgewater fans.
But after the show, I needed to visit the ATM, across the street.
A dear friend, who sucommed to cancer Susan Kowalski's son Steven is married to her daughter. They met as students at Vassar.
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