We had the hotel
breakfast late in the morning and went out to meet the kids who were sleeping
at their big brother’s place. The cab
driver was very kind. Once he discerned
that we had no idea just where the final destination was beyond the address
we’d shared he parked the car and abandoned the car’s GPS and broke out his
handy, Tokyo taxi driver’s book of chome knowledge. "It should be that building there." He offered, finally. “Does your friend not speak Japanese?” My
wife of twenty years had shades on but must have otherwise appeared to this
diplomatic cabdriver as my Japanese girlfriend.
“No. Sorry. We only have Chinese between us.”
Two subway rides later the four of us were strolling out to the brighter-than-thou Daikanyama morning. We
followed the traffic down one shopping alley with little Bernal Heights sized
dwellings till we were forced to loop back along past a new row of picturesque
boutiques, which my ladies enjoyed considering and I couldn’t have cared less
about. My wife recognized a flowery garden
of an entrance which sported a restaurant in the back of the plaza. But everyone seemed set on having “Japanese food” and all they
could offer for an indefinite waiting period, was Provencal. I grabbed an espresso and my kids split a
mascarpone treat form the bakery across the way, while my wife considered the
home goods shop.
There’s a big apartment tower in the middle of
Daikanyama. I hope someone raised a fuss
when they decided to build it. It’s
lovely of course, and I’m sure it costs a small fortune to live there but it
doesn’t fit with all this cutesy-coziness of this neighborhood. I suggested we walk down that way as I’d
recalled there was a footpath heading down to Shibuya, which had restaurants
along the side. We walked beneath the
big tower and I considered something an old friend had told me about this
neighborhood: 'This is the bluff from
which the Shogun generals could look down on the city and consider all before
them.' I liked this story, though he has
said similar things about other Tokyo neighborhoods, as well.
One block turned to another.
Down at this corner is a place where my
friend had taken me. Yes. Here.
Here it is. “Dad, it’s
Italian.” "Right. OK.
Let’s go to this footpath then."
We crossed the road where we shouldn’t have and felt bad about it, this being Japan. The footpath led us to a
lovely outdoor beer garden, which I vaguely remembered as being there. But they had only burgers and fries. So many places serving everything except: Japanese
food. So we traveled on. And there was complaining. People were hungry. “Just this way.” And they could see that we were coming down
the hill now towards the Ebisu subway the restaurant storefronts were
returning. I took a call and they piled
into a Japanese-looking place in desperation. When I
entered I was able to tip the point on a quick exit, as it was only a pasta place, and then, finally, not long
after we were all enjoying some hearty curry Ramen, which was just about worth the
wait for.
Saturday, 4/30/17
Saturday, 4/30/17
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