When you sign up to
take the last flight down to Shanghai it always seems like a good idea. You imagine the extra time with the family
and the down-time asleep on the flight.
But you forget how grinding it is to arrive somewhere at midnight. The cab queue at Hong Qiao Airport was
perhaps the longest I’ve ever seen. This
must be a function of fewer late night taxis as much as a surge of people. But I will say this for the Shanghai airport
functionaries, they know how to move a crowd.
The line moved more swiftly than it would have in Beijing, let alone
anywhere in the U.S.
I was enjoying some loud rock anthem when I heard some
screeching above the tube amp crunch of distorted bar chord. I removed my ear buds to find a young Chinese
gentleman arguing with a young Chinese woman behind him in the line beside mine. He suggested she mind her business in
reasonable English. She told him she’d
mind whatever they hell she wanted in less reasonable English. Then he took to ignoring her and she began to
enumerate to the person next to her and indeed to all of the two hundred people
in line why this guy was an asshole in loud, southern accented, Chinese.
The line snakes around in an S shaped pen with at least five coils of turns so that once, and
twice and three times more I get to slowly watch this odd pair approach, the
taller guy is now frustrated, set on ignoring the screecher. The lady continuing to complain aloud, over
and over about the man. I am very, very,
tempted to say something biting to her as she passes close, but it is, of course, pointless. This sort of street level haranguing that
goes on ad nauseam and never results
in blows or in fact anything really, is certainly another great refinement of
the Shanghainese.
Check in late. Up to
bed. They are trying to be nice here at
the Royal Meridien in Shanghai but I’d really rather they didn’t put this
enormous complementary brownie they leave here in my room. I should pick it up and immediately flush it
down the toilet. I wouldn’t normally eat
a brownie before bed, but once I take a nibble, I’m sure to finish the whole
thing.
The next morning I lead a training with young Chinese
professionals. I talk to them about the
differences between Chinese and U.S. culture and I provide a bit of theory to
buttress what I’m saying. They are
confident, and humble, smart and open minded, a lovely group of young
people. I suggest to them that they are
ambassadors of Chinese civilization and to not be afraid about their
assignments in America. I end by
reminding them of how fortunate they are to have these chances that would have
been all but impossible for nearly any Chinese generation before them. And this finds its mark.
Thursday, 11/09/17
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