Pulling into Huaihua, trying to shake a mood. We’d forgotten something in the cab on the
near miss ride to the train station in Beijing.
I’d had a rotten call with a client last night. I was about to begin four days on the rode
with my dearest friend and his girlfriend, who's lovely. They’d traveled ten
thousand miles to be here and all I could think of was work.
I figured I’d try to get
an Di Di here in rural Hunan. The app told me there was no
one to be found. I passed one and then
another driver, prosthelytizing. No
thanks. No thanks. No . . . OK. How much?
I bargained a bit and we were on our way. This is very different terrain here in
Western Hunan than the rolling farmlands I'd visited in Hunan just a week or so back. We cut through one and then another
mountain. I did my best to finish as
many phone calls as I could before arriving at Fenghuang.
We were dropped off at a
bridge, up above the city, above the river and our hotel proprietor came out to
meet us. Up a winding path, to what I
assumed as a bluff over the old city, we soon were settled in our rooms. I had a very civilized porch and a commanding
view of the remarkable river town and called down for the owner to bring me up a few
beers. Another call, this time a conference
call between Moscow and Sidney from Fenghuang to try allow for one of my staff
to work on a new project for a client I enjoy speaking to.
We headed out in a light
drizzle and tried to get our bearings.
There were lovely old roofs and winding narrow streets and twisting
pathways across the river on streets with many, many, many Chinese tourists. I didn’t see
another “foreigner” the entire time. We
settled upon a simple Hunan restaurant, outdoors, not far from an outdoor, dance-class din.
Later we walked and walked
and realized that the main “city”, the fabled buildings we’d seen in all the
photos was further up river. At night,
lit up it was rather evocative, walking through one medieval alley way, under a
walkway up to a bend in the river. But
as we’d been warned, Fenghuang is rather mobbed with Chinese tourists, marching behind the tour guide flags, seeing all that they are required to see.
I was getting tired, by
the time we passed our fourth drum shop. A terribly bored young lady sat in the doorway banging away aimlessly. It all had the
feeling of an expansion plan that someone drew up in a board room, many miles
from here. And now we walk swiftly as its started to rain.
Friday 05/11/18
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