Sunday, January 26, 2014

Migration Underway




Silty dry morning.  Cold, dull utterly barren feeling that proceeds Chinese New Year.  On my way to the airport again, early morning stare out along An Hua Jie, now Tian Bei Lu.  J. J. Johnson's trombone on the 1964 track "Neo", pensive, determined, dulling the sharp edges of my morning.  Normal routines slowing down. People have begun to return home.  The largest annual human migration has begun.  My wife went to go get more fabric over the weekend.  They’d already left for Wenzhou or Anhui.  “Honey can your office help to take care of . . . ?”  “No.  The girl who does that has already left for home.” Technically the number of days off is merely a week.  Technically the holiday doesn’t start for another five days.  But most people get out early take at least two weeks and many take three or more. 

Construction sites that usually hum are at a standstill.  Migrant labor, of course, the first to leave.  At New Year’s in the north everything feels the way an iron bar sounds if you hit it with a stick in the cold.  Dull ring, hands sting, unforgiving.  Red is the color of New Year.  Red splashes out. Red bows draped around stone lions.  Cheap red lanterns hanging in row.  Torn paper scrolls hang on the doors, 万事如意[1] and other auspicious messages.  The character “Fu”, luck, fortune, upside down, the homophone for “arrival.”  Everything set but no one is around. Dusty.



Always crowded, suddenly a bit lonely with the migrant sea who swell the population all en route now to the country-side.  Reading about the trouble that peasants have trying to procure tickets to return home.  The system is rigged.  Scalpers buy up all the cheap tickets and gouge everyone who didn’t secure a seat in the first few secondss of opportunity.  There’s an IT consultation challenge for you.  There’s a government relations dilemma.  That’s one group of people you don’t want furious en masse.  400 million people trying to go home, forced to spend multiples of what they budgeted to do so.

I read Evan Osnos piece in the New Yorker on Xu Zhiyong with my daughter last night.  http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/comment/2014/01/the-trial-of-the-chinese-dream.html?mobify=0   He is a young lawyer and legal activist who tried to push for reform from within the system. Lauded internationally and at home, Osnos juxtaposes Xu’s earlier profile in Esquire magazine about China’s reformers, about their Chinese dream.  It is, however at odds with Xi Jinping’s China dream.  Mr. Xu is essentially accused of organizing people to fight corruption and he will go to jail for it:

On Wednesday, Xu will go to court, in Beijing, where prosecutors are preparing to try him on the charge of “gathering a crowd to disrupt public order.” He is accused of organizing small-scale protests against corruption and in support of migrant parents who are seeking to enroll their children in city schools. Xu faces up to five years in prison. Nobody doubts that he will be convicted.

Reading consciously after having watched “The Butler” and discussed MLK and Malcolm X, we compared his efforts to organize with those of the other two Americans.  The March on Washington, was a much larger scale “gathering of a crowd.”  Let alone the message of armed resistance and separation that Malcolm X could legally articulate again and again in public in the 1960s.  How difficult and courageous Chinese people must be to simply speak publically.  

Those Malcolm clips from yesterday stayed with me longer than anything else.  If you follow the link from the Youtube collection of vignettes yesterday forward ahead to the end and watch as they interview people in Harlem after his assassination.  A reporter with a British accent is trying to get people to talk.  And they do.  A savvy woman who looks like a house wife, decries the “white power structure” then holds her ground.  And there’s a young man, a teen, who reminds me of so many students who describes why Malcolm X was a hero and why it mean trouble for “you” Mr. white reporter.  No one believes that anyone other than the white world has killed Malcolm.  Then, an old, West Indian gentleman who doesn’t want to speak, erupts, as though from the bowels of the earth to say that he loved Malcolm, because he was black, like him.  Voices, unfiltered.



There are perhaps two cultures, one of which, African American’s of the deep south, the world of Mahalia Jackson and Martin Luther King that was, is a “country” I’ve never visited.  But Malcolm’s world of Harlem, of Brooklyn, of the urban north.  That’s a country I know well.  He builds such a fierce, unforgiving world and allows no way out for a white viewer.  Until his final year or so, when he begins to evolve as an black internationalist from a black nationalist.  

Writing this paragraph sitting at a Costa Coffee stool in the Beijing Capital Airport staring out the bustle of the great hall.  A woman my age of African descent sits beside me.  I presume she is from the States.  I smile at her, perhaps a bit too eagerly.  I’m wearing large headphones.  She acknowledges me.  My problem.  Our problem.  No problem.  Breathe



[1] wànshìrúyì:  to have all one's wishes (idiom) / best wishes / all the best / may all your hopes be fulfilled

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