My daughter was going
to go on a field trip today. She was
terribly excited, as we had visited the place before on a family outing. An hour or more’s drive north from Beijing is
a series of Tang Dynasty caves that are hollowed out and abandoned but once housed
a whole colony of refugees and exiles.
She was looking forward to being quite likely the only person who’d seen
the place before. Late March and the
trees would just be blooming.
This morning early she burst in my room and went straight to
my computer. What’s up honey? Checking the AQI. It’s early.
I’m not quite sure what she’s saying.
I look up and there’s a map of greater Beijing and with various numeric
bubbles on my laptop and it all starts flooding back. She had told me last evening when we did the
emergency-run trip to the supermarket to get lunch material for the excursion
that the trip would be canceled if the air quality index were too high.
At first it appeared that the index was low and she’d be all
right. But as she fiddled about it
became clear that the rating for much of the city were all quite high. The trip would likely be canceled.
I’m driving around the city now. The pall of particulate dust stretches out
across all of the sky. The dust has a
gravitational quality so that any straight gaze is slowly, imperceptibly pulled
downward. It is a particularly ironic
haze today as it would otherwise be a lovely early spring day. The sun isn’t hidden behind clouds. It’s right there. This should be a sunny day. It’s merely obscured by dust. There are a few cherry blossom trees in full
bloom out and around. There are magnolia
trees blooming and buds of all different variety preparing to rise and
unfold. They are also obscured by dust. Buildings, cars, roads, needless to say, are
all blanketed in dust. And the truly
sad part as we learned this morning on the map, is that it extends out for
hours in every direction.
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