Saturday, April 15, 2017

This Year, The "Northern" Mountain




I’m in the middle of Shanxi.  That’s a mountain and a west, characteristically speaking.  We’re heading to the holy mountain of Heng Shan.  That’s 恒山 not 衡山。 Last year I was turning fifty and I grabbed upon the idea of climbing Tai Shan in my wife’s home province, Shandong.  It is the eastern representative of the Wu Yue 五岳, the sacred Daoist mountains.  This year I managed to somehow talk everyone into cultivating a fledgling tradition to go climb a second of the mountains, this year, the “northern” mountain. 

I have visited the base of this mountain some fourteen years ago, driving up at dusk to the Hanging Monastery that clung to the cliff face impossibly as the sun went down.  We’d driven up with only the intention of catching a glimpse.  Usually one doesn’t get a chance to return to sites that merit a second visit.  This time I may. 



It is so great to get up and out of Beijing.  I wanted to leave the city right after the girls got out of school.  It was a fine goal but we didn’t have gas and commence to mount the highway till well after 5:00PM. We traced the familiar route up to the heavily touristed Badaling section of the Great Wall, and then, as the sun set itself down behind the mountains, we were off and over into Hebei, riding roads that were new for us all.  Off in the distance were dramatic rugged peaks with a new spring fuzz of then green to soften them. 

We’re set to arrive about 10:30PM.  Who knows what there will be to eat.  Who knows if the small town hotel will be meet the standards of my three-lady team.  Who knows if tomorrow it will suddenly rain and mean we have to go scurrying for ponchos like last year.  But the climb of Hengshan is apparently the most modest of the five and with any luck I’ll be able to tell you what the view from the top is like, by this time tomorrow. 



I tell my kids, who loved Greece that Shanxi is the Greece of China.  I’m not sure I convinced them.  May we all be fortunate enough to mount our third peak next year.



Friday, 04/14/17


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