“Two blocks north, take a left on Jiu Jiang
Lu, and go past the adult toy store. We
always call it the Irish Bar. They’ll
definitely be a Shamrock. I’ll arrive
there around five thirty. First round on
me. Timing hadn’t allowed me to do this
earlier in the year with another course I taught. And though, they’re probably all old enough
to drink in China, I don’t think it’s good-form to invite the class of
undergraduate students to a watering hole.
It’s a nice tradition though with the graduate students.
The two barmaids
are the same gals who’ve poured the drinks here for the last few years
now. They both recognize me, and we
start chatting amiably in Chinese. One
young lady reminds me that she hails from Guangdong and in the same second apologizes for the fact that she is still working here and I seem to remember a conversation from
some eleven months ago where I’d chided her to push herself to consider work
beyond the Irish Bar.
I ask her to let
me know when the tab reaches fifteen hundred renminbi. They don’t seem to have Murphy’s anymore, so
I ask for a Guinness. It’s on the house as
I’m the last of the big spenders and as I thank her and take my jet black pint
over to table of students, it occurs to me this was basically Irish pub
behavior. There isn’t much beyond the
Guinness and the shamrocks that speak to Eire in this joint. Certainly it is
owned by a Shanghainese kid. There are a
few other vaguely Anglo- Australian looking men at a table, who are complaining
about business among themselves. I keep
an eye on them so they don’t help themselves to a drink on my behalf.
Students are from
so many remarkable places. Next week
they’ll all be somewhere else, in London or Boston or the Bay Area. I try my best to mix it up and get some time
in with everyone who made the effort to stop by, though my tendency is to want
to just sit in one place and relax.
Somewhere in the distance I can make out something vaguely
familiar. Bar chords are repeating
themselves beyond cognition, above the din and as I turn my attention to them I
realize it is 'Gimmie Shelter', playing on their infinite classic rock loop. They barmaid from Guangdong needs to see me
and I excuse myself. We’ve exceeded the
tab, and she helps me to add up the few people left at the bar who haven’t yet been
served and consider the cost.
Sunday, 7/21/19
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