Monday, July 28, 2014

The Dog That Did Bark





Murder might be too strong, I concede.  But thoughts were most assuredly murderous this morning, listening to the neighbors’ dog, over the wall, in the adjoining compound, to the one where we are staying.  Like a car alarm that is supposed to announce a threat, or a potential intrusion that is quickly, completely ignored as an annoyance, Fido started yelping intensely around 3:45AM, long before the roosters started crowing, 兔子惊扰[1]  I lay there, with the residue of multiple espressos ingested for the drive down earlier in the day, coursing about my veins and considered his concern.

It’s not my dog.  Perhaps I should have sprung up and been alterted that he was on to something.  Surely, this was not just any bark.  Intensely determined, over and over he called out, “danger, danger,” “concern, concern.”  But it wasn’t my yard either.  And with the exception of his repeated call, there was nothing else happening in the night air.  A thief tip-toeing outside perhaps?  A bear lumbering through the garbage?  Perhaps I’ll head out and find my car has been broken into, or worse.  Then I’ll ring the neighbor’s bell and lament how I should have listened to Fido. But at 3:59AM I wanted to throw a steak over the wall pasted with strychnine. 



We’re back down south by the sea.  Last night I saw the more built up side of this Praiha da Rocha community.  There is a casino, which we avoided and a bevy of posh hotels and nearby condos, that stand above a proper sandy beach, which extends for a hundred yards out to the sea.  This reminded me more of Santa Monica, or some coast of Italy that I’ve yet to visit, than it did the quaint, rough-hewn Fort Funston cliffs that are a closer walk to our home. 

Walking about, on the main strip, after some decidedly adventurous parking we couldn’t find the Mar e Sol restaurant.  Well- dressed couples were heading down to the beach.  No towels.  No flip-flops.  It must be down there.  I went into an ornate hotel, painted in gold.  Fala Inglesh?” “Yes.” As if she was from Canarsie.  ““Mar e Sol ? You wanna go, out the back, by the pool, down the stairs  out on to the boardwalk.  You’ll find Mar e Sol on the right.”   Left actually, but we made it.

Dining is deceptive.  You see the prices and you think dollars.  You understand they are Euros and you discount up.  But only slightly.  Not sufficiently.  Rather it’s satisfying to stare at a menu where all the entrees are 10-something or less.  The bottles of wine are similarly 10-something or perhaps a bit more.  There is a free round of their “dry cheese” with dinner.  The proprietor also fala’s Insglesh,  and he is pedantic but in good measure. The food was delicious.  I had a “Wolf bass”, which I’ve never heard of but sitting there on the sand, sounded hearty. 

Things got more hearty.  Beside us, behind a wall, was a bachelor party that descended into soccer-like chants and shirts coming off.  We joked about what we could do that might offend them.  Behind me, at least, mercifully, was a TV that erred to the merciless.  The same young man in a grey blazer went around to people, asking what must have been embarrassing questions.  The microphone was visible in nearly every shot.  Later I switched to the head table and then, it was all over.  I could no longer ignore the TV as it was within eyeshot.  Let’s hope Air China does not get a hold of this, as its perfectly attuned to their sensibilities.



Charles Kynard is grunting and groaning behind in the background, as if he were Charles Mingus on this funky acid jazz track “Little Ghetto Boy” from the the 1972 album entitled “Woga.”  Not quite sure what that last word signifies though Google tossed up the “World Olympic Gymnastics Academy”, which most assuredly has nothing to do with this.  Born in St. Louis in 1933, he passed in 1979 and though I couldn’t find a substantive obituary, he apparently kept close to L.A. and didn’t record much beyond the contributions we have from the sixties and seventies.  This third tune on the disc "Lime Twig" is slowing it all down nicely.

I’d always rather see a new city or a historical town, than lie around on a beach or sit at the pool.  Today though, will likely be about waterside duty.  I can feel the sun burn already.  I’ve been stealing bits of progress in my second volume of Portuguese history.  This book traces the expanse of empire.  We’re over in Nagasaki, traveling with Japanese silver down to Macao to buy Chinese silk and porcelain, so we can restock with cloves at Melaka.  I’ll take a few disruptive cannonball dives and then find a place in the shade to proceed.  We haven’t even landed in Brazil, yet and I want to understand just when they decided to go west. 
 


[1] túzìjīngrǎo: to alarm oneself unnecessarily (idiom)

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