The weather is
supposed to be warm in Tokyo. Heading
over for a few days this week and then a few days next week. The weather here on the way to the airport is
cold and dim. The backseat window of the
cab is all fogged over. Outside it
smells like Czechoslovakia from the days when Czechoslovakia was still called Czechoslovakia. The air was cold and smelled of coal. The memories come unsolicited. That was a cold, dark winter too.
I don’t have much time left to get to the airport. I’ll need to slap my passport down in ten
minutes or so, or the gate will be closed.
I have a good, no nonsense, run-you-off-the-road cab driver, and this alleviates
some of the concern. Surprisingly, for
7:38 AM these airport back roads are packed. I think it looks earlier than it
really is, because of all the haze. I
really like how this guy is speeding forward when the lane opens up. But its no good. We’ve come upon a light that has a
seconds-countdown clock. It’s currently
on second 73.
December is here. I
just noticed this, titling this doc.
About an hour later I’ve a grin. A grin for the accommodating way, my host
country, sometimes operates. I’d
convinced myself that I had forty-five minutes before departure to check in,
back there in the cab, writing away.
This is certainly the case on domestic flights. But the friendly Air China lady explained
that I was ten minutes late (not five minutes early) for an international
departure. “Oh. I have no luggage. Please check. Thank you, thank you, thank you.” She made a call. “He said ‘no.’ It’s too late.” Redoubling, abandoning nearly all
reserve: “Please call back, I’ll speak
to the manager, this is really, really important, I’m your platinum card
holder, please try one more time, I’m begging you here. Please. Just try again. Tell em’ it’s important.” Absurd smile hanging in the air.
She calls back. “. .
. Yes, no luggage” “That’s right! No luggage!”
“OK. Go to gate
thirty-three. I cannot issue the ticket it
here.” “Are you sure they will?” “Yes.
But I can’t guarantee you’ll make the plane.” “You’re great. Thank you.”
Moments later, walking through the initial gateway to the
international terminal, ticket in hand, I notice a melody from a hollow bodied
guitar. Grant Green is playing
overhead. Where for two unerring decades
we had Kenny G’s tinny soprano sax in this most nationalistic of airports, one
can now find Grant Green. I applaud you,
whoever you are, that pushed for that change.
I am sure you met resistance. My
eyes rise instinctively, looking for Grant Green. Finding only the ceiling I smile and think
how much I like this place, in spite of the polluted mornings. You can make things happen if you smile and
you’re pushy, and you don’t give up and you connect with someone’s humanity . .
. and luck is still coursing along in the same direction you are.
I made sure to return to the first young lady; the girl who
could have waved me off to begin with her palm upturned in my face. Interrupting her engagement with a customer I
told her that she was great.
Now I’m up over the clouds.
The air is clear and transparent.
I can see through this air. I must
adjust now to Japanese norms, where all my pleading and hustling and grinning, would
certainly have been for naught.
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