Wednesday, December 23, 2015

Return to Axum




There must have been moisture last night.  All the trees have a dirty, white frosting on them.  It’s getting near to Christmas.  I wondered if maybe the traffic wouldn’t be so bad as more and more people have left town.  The foreign community won’t be going to work much this week.  But the foreign community is a drop in the ocean, even out here in this foreign enclave.  The license restrictions have lifted.  It’s rush hour.  Even this access road is jammed. 

The US has announced that it will no longer be providing the ‘add pages to your passport’ services that had otherwise been the standard.  The change, it was explained, was for security reasons.  After January 1st, if you run out of clean pages for visas and stamps, you’ll need to go get a new passport.  I dully accepted this when I read the email from the embassy.  Then a friend in Tokyo mentioned that he was dashing off to the embassy this week, to get his pages before the end of the month.  “That’s smart” I reckoned considering the four or five clean pages I had for the next seven years, and made an appointment for myself. 



Arriving one can’t but spare a thought for all the Chinese people in line.  The mass of people seems overwhelming.  Today, I’m fortunate.  I walked right up to the front of the line, hopped a metal barricade and, after weathering a “you’re not supposed to do that" message from the guard, showed him my passport and appointment doc and was allowed to enter in, straight away. 



Once you’re on the second floor the crowds part and it’s all rather civilized.  I filled out the form, paid my money, turned the passport in was told to wait for “one hour.”  I hadn’t counted on that.  My phone is being kept outside in a locker.  This would mean the driver outside waiting for me would be furious, the call I was supposed to take, I’d miss and I’d be very late for the 10:30 meeting.  But at least I had my book.  With a guilty smile, I cracked open “The Life of My Choosing” by Wilfred Thessiger to continue with his life in Ethiopia.

Lost in a stroll through Djibouti in 1930, I was a bit dismayed to hear my name called after about ten minutes of waiting.  “Here you go.”  “Right.  OK. “  I was just settling in to obligatory hooky when it dissolved in front of me.  Ahh well.


Outside the driver was still happy, and the meeting was still on.  Perhaps later on today, I’ll get to return to Axum. 

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