Baux
Provence appears to be a remarkable medieval hill town in the photos I have searched
for on Google Images. I have
written ahead though, to ask: “how
high is the hill? How arduous is the bike ride up?” We’re biking there you see
and I’m a bit concerned that some of us might make it only part of the way up
before throwing in the towel.
I have been told that cars are only allowed so high up. Everyone must park and then walk the
remaining distance, unless, of course, you are on a bike. I cling to this as a central supporting
beam in my architecture of persuasive blarney. Other timber
includes: “Apparently it’s not a
very steep climb.” “If we have to, we’ll walk our bikes up.” “It’s not that important.”
“Let’s see what we think.”
Left and left again, passed an aqueduct that I wanted to
believe was Roman, up the path and we’re on a golf course. It is good that someone has mapped all
this out for us. We sail along
past the putting green, yielding for golf carts and on beyond two staff like
looking people sitting outside a building smoking. “Is there a place for dining?” They give us some simple directions, which I mess up and
which sends us to an odd collection of overbuilt dwellings, sans any people. “No, no, no, Monsieur, it’s down there.
Sweaty, dirty and nervous I entered the refined atmosphere
of the upscale golf clubhouse. I
kept asking for le petit dejeuner and
not the dejeuner but we got in and
got a table and got fed, which was absolutely necessary before we could
continue. And it was late now,
with the hill before us. I played
my hand as if it were a certainty that we’d make our way up. But if pressed hard on multiple fronts,
I knew I’d have to cave.
It certainly wasn’t the happiest ride we’d had thus far, but
we worked off the lunch and made it to a bluff, beneath the great cliff
face. I bluffed now and said there
was a place to park the bikes, right up ahead, when the others finally made it
to the crest before the final ascent.
Fortunately, two hundred yards up the path there was a parking slot
beneath some stone stairs leading up to the hill town. And as happens I was hit with a strong sense of resemblance to our walk beneath Mount Parnassus and a slow ascent to the Mehrangarh Fort. How remarkable now to look down now on the Alpilles.
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