Paris
was chilly. It’s July. We have a place on the Quay Henry IV
with a view out over the traffic and the blowing plane tree leaves to the
Seine. We’re a little too far down
stream to have the booksellers with their green cases to flip up and open
shop. But I can see Notre
Dame.
Of all the medieval cathedrals I can think of, it always
seems the most lifelike. Downriver
to the southeast look back the head of the church rises up with a ring of
mournful eyes to stare out across both banks. But it is, of course the flying buttress ribbing that
anthropomorphisizes the building into something more like an enormous whale
carcass or a giant octopus risen up out of the river.
I sat on a rickety chair out on the porch of our apartment. Some bop was in order and I pulled up Harold
Land’s “Eastward Ho!” which fit the scene. And with the music to drown out the
traffic three floors below, I wrote and considered where it is I was sitting,
once again.
But only for a
while. Restless, with everyone
else still asleep, I went down to the riverbank and looked back at the
impenetrable block of apartments that must have been built in the sixties with
their faded modernity. To get
coffee and bread I ducked around the back to Boulevard Morland, named for one
of Napoleon’s Colonels who didn’t make it home from the battle of Austerlitz.
A shop for juice and fruit. A restaurant that had been swarmed late last night was had
but one other patron and I grabbed my espresso and sat out under an
umbrella. Two young paramilitary
guards with menacing looking machine guns were standing, chatting, guarding
something. Restless again, I made
my past them to the boulangerie and
stocked up on breads and pastries to return to the apartment with.
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