Zanzibar has a slavery museum. It was certainly one of the best kept museums
I’ve seen on this trip. Partly because it was focused upon one main narrative
and wasn’t trying to trace the progression of an entire nation, the story was
clear. More than this, the images and
the lay out were all artfully done and available in English so that everyone
could properly confront the profound misery.
I have visited the slave
castles at Elminia in Ghana and in Goree in Senegal and remember them as being
like Auschwitz in their potency. And like most Americans I suppose, I think of
the trade as an Atlantic experience.
Coastal Bantu people captured other inland Bantu people in places like
Ghana, Nigeria, Cameroon, and all the way down to the Congo. These people were bought by Europeans and
Americans and shipped to South Carolina, Hispanola, Baihia during the trade
which lasted for centuries.
Unfortunately there is was
a complementary slave trade on the east side of the continent as well. In a dynamic that seems sadly similar,
coastal Bantu people captured inland Bantu people and sold them, in this case
to Arab traders who brought the human cargo to the Arab world and to plantation
islands in the Indian Ocean like Reunion.
The building in which the slaves were stored before sale is where the
museum is housed. In the basement one
can see the underground chambers where the slaves were jammed in to, awaiting
their fate. The numbers they tell you of
fifty men or fifty women and children in one or the chamber cannot be
rationally imagined.
In the end of the museum
there was a world map suggesting the places of the world where slavery still
exists suggesting numbers of people who are still enslaved. China was featured prominently and both my
daughters wanted to know what that meant.
How could there be so many millions of slaves in China? The map wasn’t clear precisely how things
were defined but I did my best to explain that it probably included forced
labor, places like sweat shops and perhaps even prison labor. A quick look at the “global slavery index” suggests
that orphaned children who migrate to the cities and migrant workers without resident
hukou rights are the bulk of whom
they’re talking about. Perhaps another
pervasive metaphor of the museum to consider slavery as existing in places you
hadn’t otherwise thought possible.
Thursday, 07/06/17
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