Stood A Large Buzzard

The approach to the Serengeti took time.  “You see that mountain over there?”  It was seventy miles or more out, across the broad plane.  “Yes.”  “That’s where the Serengeti Gate is located.”  The hill holds its place, unchanging.  A reluctant departure for us from the Ngorongoro Crater  this morning, where we saw a phenomenal number of new animals yesterday.  “How do you say “Serengeti” in Chinese?”  “I don’t know.”  “Oh.”  I tried but it was way too bumpy to type on the way out to the park entrance.  I asked my driver when the road would improve and he suggested later when we departed the park, three days later.  Finally the  “Welcome to Serengeti “sign, atop, which stood a large buzzard. 

There at the park entrance there was a place to get coffee.  Deeper into the parkland the espresso had become more expensive.  As I kidded the lady about the ten-thousand-shilling cup, I heard three guys speaking what could only be Shanghaihua, “SanhaeiO.”  I walked over and introduced myself. They had come from Kenya.  The wondered why I had gone to Malawi.  It is very poor.  Ahh.  I told them, rather paternally, “but the culture is very profound.  You must go.”

In the Serengeti we had quite a bit more driving to do.  The familiar cry of youth sang out from the back seat: “How long till we get there?” “About two hours.”  We drove for a while, catching sight of the odd giraffe or impala traversing the great Serengeti plane but as the long afternoon began to fall it became clear that the driver could not find our camp.  We’d done this loop before and came up short the last time.   I saw one camp, and became disappointed, that must be it.  It seemed to have metal roofed constructions.  We drove past it.  Each time I assumed I knew what the driver was doing he turned in a manner counterintuitive. 

Now the sun was properly setting on the Serengeti.  My wife became nervous.  “Ask him if he knows where he’s going.” She said in Chinese.  Commanding that I ask him.  “Are you nervous?” Our driver asked us with a wry smile.  “Are you sure you know where you are going this time?”  I reluctantly inquired. He nodded up ahead to a group of what could have been corrugated shacks but ended up being rather luxurious tents.

When we got there it was nearly dark and everyone was tired.  Lions, we were told and hyenas are there in the woods.  Only go to your room with the Massai warrior when he accompanies you.  If you want to return to the camp when it is dark, you must flash your light and he will come to find you.  This seemed rather wonderful.

The night is all rather different when you know it’s martial.  There are an assortment of creatures that could be lurking just beyond what you can see who might decide to make a meal of you or otherwise knock you to the ground.  That night we heard what we were later told were hyenas.  The little one and the Mrs. heard something larger they insisted. 

Sunday 07/02/17