Monday, June 9, 2014

Food I Can Recall





 The Park Hotel in Shanghai is right off of the People’s Park.  Like all buildings in Shanghai that were built in, say, 1934, the building is mournful, haunted.  I walked by it tonight with a friend on the way home from dinner and we went inside.  The lobby is a grand feeling of tight, Deco elegance.  This is where Song Ai Ling came to play.  This is what Mao Dun had in mind when he wrote “Midnight.” And upstairs, there is, to this refurbished hotel’s credit, small museum.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Park_Hotel_Shanghai




Now mind you this wasn't’ the only place of substance I’d visited this evening on my stroll about my temporary new neighborhood.  We started out around sunset trying to find a place to eat.  In my mind is the Shanghai of 1993, where we would could have their choice of restaurants offering excellent jia chang cai or family story cooking.  The dishes would be varied and delicious, the beer a bit warm and invariably there’d be some great fried or steamed dumplings.   There’d be a host of predictable staples like and a few exotic things like snails and crayfish. The lighting bright, the table cloths old.   

When I lived here 20 years ago it was out in Pu Tuo District at the city’s premier teaching college, The East China Normal University, “Hua Dong Shi Da.”  Out the campus back door was a small alley with ten or more restaurants all cobbled together.   And that food was the first time in my life I’d really had what is commonly referred to as Chinese food.  Whatever I’d had in New York or San Francisco prior to this was a poor facsimile.  

Us foreign “experts” would pile out back there and order up a table full of food.  Eight, ten dishes and we’d set about eating most of it.  And then bill would arrive, and we’d have spent about twelve dollars to feed some 10 people.  The bar bill might have set us back another four kuai or so.  It was all rather straight forward to 节衣缩食[1] which was good, because we had so little to spend.

These days, when I’m free in Shanghai and set out to find an informal, authentic place to eat, I usually search in vain.  Most places have gone up market and differentiated themselves with a silly interior and food that is rarely memorable.  So the eight RMB General Cao’s Chicken that was symphonic back-in-the-day, is currently made with Macadamia nuts instead of peanuts and is five times as expensive for 40RMB with a splendid, mouth watering picture of this dish in the menu, right back in the section he’s hoping you don’t default to quickly, without having ordered something absurd and extravagant.  In the old days I don't think it occurred to anyone to put pictures in menus. 

We were looking and we had to look for a while. Down off the main street after walking for nearly twenty minutes we spied something.  I recognized he characters for “family style” as we strolled on by one small place, down in the basement.  This will do.  I had a bowl of excellent eggplant, reasonable greens, and iron-cooked platter of friend beef.  The waitress was from Fujian.  This I discerned after trying to speak with her in Mandarin for a bit.  Back behind us four guys for whom “Miller Time” started just about two hours ago, who sounded louder and drunker than they probably really were.    And the bill?   I was pleasantly floored when I was told it was a cool $15.00.

After finishing, we walked along a much busier street with a few dozen such places that beckon for more discovery in the next few days, right up to the side of the Park Hotel.  Built in 1934 right over the racetrack at the time by a competitor to the Cathay Hotel, this was the tallest building in Asia upon its completion.  Designed by the y the Slovak-Hungarian architect László Hudec it was an inspiration to the city at that time including the young architect who saw it there, I. M. Pei.  

One of the things that most struck me, walking around the museum on the second floor was that there was, essentially not even any window-dressing mention of how the building was or was not used, how the interior as well as the view out to the race track was stripped and paired down by the CCP when the took over the city.  These halcyon days no longer need to be profiled as glorious but they are generally mentioned, somehow.  The Park Hotel, simply ignored “liberation” and just about anything up until it is refurbished long after I first lived here in town.



Sitting here getting ready for bed, I’ve got a bit of music playing out of my phone.  The innovative pianist Andrew Hill’s first album with Blue Note from 1964, “Black Fire.”  The tune is one I hadn’t known called "Pumpkin", which features the then young Joe Henderson shedding confidently.  The internet here, away from home is sluggish, and the VPN software service I’m using is choppy and frequently drops.  So I can’t stream music easily.  Glad that I have this on my phone, and, finishing this entry at 12:26 AM, I’m glad I haven’t written about Andrew Hill before.   Putting him on to listen to, from my phone, was random and now, highly utile, as otherwise, I'm pretty tired. 




[1] jiéyīsuōshí:  to save on food and clothing (idiom); to live frugally

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