Check out time was noon. Our Airbnb host would return for the keys and
we dutifully puttered about for our last few hours packing plastic bags with
food to take and waste to leave. “Hey,
we’re supposed to leave all the sheets and pillow cases folded on the kitchen
table.” My wife had gathered wild
flowers on a walk the day before and we decided that, nice though they
appeared, we had better trash those as well.
Now we had seven hours and
ten minutes to kill. The train station
was a merciful trot, down the hill. I
had Google Translate produce: “where is the locker room for luggage?” in Cyrillic. The serious man beneath the
imposing hat burst into laughter. “Bad
translation:" He said, recovering himself.
“That way. Go right.”
The lady at the stored
luggage room pointed to the sign in Cyrillic that was indecipherable except for
the numbers 150 and a lower case “r.”
Right. If I’m calculating
correctly that’s US$2.00 per bag which will be fine. We have six.
I lug a bag. She lugs a bag. I admonish my younger daughter that she too,
should lug a bag. Soon all the bags are
inside. She hands me, six large red
poker chips. They have numbers but they
are not in any logical sequence. I type
into Google Translate again: “What time do you close?” She answers audibly and I don’t
understand. She gestures for my phone to
speak in it. She is obviously used to
dealing with more technologically advanced tourists than me. I know without trying that my antiquated
iPhone 6 will not be able to handle such a thing. I try a different way: “Will you be open at
7:00PM?” Once again, I get a paragraph’s
worth of information, which I cannot be certain of. I decide she will be open.
We get some coffee. Loud, what I assume to be Russian, heavy
metal is playing at this outdoor café.
The barista’s a nice kid who smiles at my “spesiba's” but the music is wretched. Two blocks down and two blocks over we
finally come to the “Georgian Restaurant.”
I had tried to go here the second day for lunch. And
then the second night for dinner. Each
time one thing or another had thwarted us. Walking out from the city, (just a little further) we came to a number of walk up entrances and ground level doorways. We piled in to an unassuming cellar.
My mind was imagining perfectly seasoned chicken and dry white wine with
absurd local names. Nearly every table
was filled with South Korean tourists.
Well. Anyong Haseyao! I found a proprietor
who immediately said “Niet.” Indicating that the place had been booked out. We gestured to some empty tables in the back
but were met with more “Niet.” I suggested we had walked far to get here, but this was
irrelevant. “Two O’Clock. Come back at Two O’Clock.” It was 1:05PM. We left, grumbling about how they obviously
weren’t entrepreneurs.
Sunday 6/24/18
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