Andrei Bely’s book “Petersburg” is haunted and it is
doing a wonderful job of animating the facades and frightening the corners and
the canals of my Petrograd. The stuffy
Imperial Russian men I see painted in the national Gallery are the Appolon
Appelonovich and the waitress at the veggie restaurant is Sofia Petrovna. It has been three days but I need a good view
of the Bronze Horseman. I know that it will
come to life before long, if I let it.
The Church of the Spilled Blood sis dramatically named and perfectly pleasant but I'm never as awed stepping into a house of worship that is “only” a few hundred
years old. It's dark and tall and there are many tombs to consider. Tsarist blood spilled here? A bomb? A shot? I must refresh my memory.
The Russian Museum is precisely where I want to be, after the day in the Hermitage, with Raphael's and Leanardo's. I want Russian scenes and Russian faces, not not Renaissance Italy. Now I've windows into bucolic country scenes
and peasants heading off to war and windows into tough looking workers
and folk art that speaks of what was inside all those wooden cottages we saw in
Siberia passing along on the train.
The vegetarian
restaurant isn’t far. But it all depends
on who you’re talking to. It isn’t
raining, which is an upgrade over our walk to the restaurant yesterday. We pass a group of young girls
photographing one another on the bridge.
They don’t seem to think wherever they are is too far. My daughters do. "Where, exactly?" "How much further?" Onward passed a park. Onward passed the mansion off to the
right. There, that yellow building. That’s where we’re heading.
Inside amazing bells can be heard from
the red church across the street. Once
again in this restaurant, they have some tasteful hiphop that sounds like Prefuse 73, perhaps
mixing a rapper from New York, for sure. Yes, I’ll have more of your borscht and a beer
and we’ll occupy this other bench and consider what it would be like to come
here all the time. We text the
directions to mom. It isn’t far. But it’s all to complicated and she says
shell pass.
It’s sunny now. Yes.
We will walk back from here. Older sister, will you tell the younger one it isn't far? I try to
explain this concept of pre-gentrification but I don’t do a commanding job of it. At least I don’t think so. Gentrification is probably something you need to witness.
Friday 7/06/18
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